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Chandni Chowk

Dariba Kalan: silver, polki and asking better questions

By Neha · 7 min read
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Dariba Kalan has been selling jewellery for centuries, and it is still the best place in Delhi to learn how jewellery is priced before you spend a large sum somewhere smarter-looking.

I send brides here for silver, for family pieces, and for an education. I don't send anyone here to buy a bridal set blind on a Tuesday afternoon.

What the lane is good for

  • Silver — payals, kade, pieces for the extended family, return gifts. Priced close to weight, so the markup is visible and small.
  • Imitation and kundan-look sets for functions where you don't want real stones anywhere near a dance floor.
  • Repair, restringing and resizing, including of family pieces that have been in a locker for thirty years.
  • Understanding how the trade talks — which is the real reason to spend an hour here before you buy anything big.

How jewellery pricing actually works

Almost every bridal jewellery bill has the same four parts, and understanding them is most of the battle.

Metal weight and rate Gold is charged at the day's rate for the purity. This part is public and non-negotiable — you can check the rate yourself before walking in.

Making charges The labour. Quoted either per gram or as a percentage, and this is where the negotiation genuinely lives. It varies hugely between shops for identical work.

Stone value Polki, kundan, meena. The least transparent part of the bill, and the part most worth asking to see itemised.

Wastage A percentage added for metal lost in making. Normal in the trade, but the figure differs by shop and it is a fair thing to ask about.

Questions to ask before you pay

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  • Is this hallmarked, and can I see the mark? For gold in India, hallmarking is the standard, not a favour.
  • Can I have the making charges and the stone value shown separately on the bill?
  • What is your buy-back and exchange policy, in writing, and does it differ for stones versus metal?
  • What is the wastage percentage on this piece?
  • If this is polki, is it uncut diamond or glass — and will the bill say which?
  • Will you give me a proper tax invoice in the shop's name?

A piece of plain advice

Do not buy serious gold or polki on your first visit to any lane, including this one. Walk it, ask the questions above in three shops, and notice who answers plainly and who gets uncomfortable. The shop that itemises the bill without being pushed is usually the shop to go back to.

And for the pieces you'll wear once, at one function, under lights, in photographs — good imitation is not a compromise. It's a sensible decision that leaves money for things that last.

Neha's shortlist

I keep my own shortlist of the shops I actually send brides to here — the ones whose work, pricing and after-sales I've tested myself. I don't publish that list publicly, because a shop that was brilliant last season isn't automatically brilliant this one, and I'd rather give you a current answer than an old one. Ask me on a call and you'll get the names, the lane, and who to ask for.

Jewellery is the easiest place to overspend

If you're deciding between real and imitation, or trying to work out whether a quote is fair, bring me the quote. That conversation has saved my brides more money than any other.

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